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With the fall of the Dutch cabinet, political progress on sustainability is at a standstill. But for the fashion industry—especially in a frontrunner country like the Netherlands—there’s no time to pause.

The European Union is ramping up its sustainability demands, while environmental pressures are growing by the day. For former MP Kiki Hagen, who was instrumental in shaping Dutch textile legislation, this is precisely the moment for the sector to step forward. “The legal groundwork is there, but without political leadership, the risk is that we lose momentum,” she warns.

In this interview, Hagen shares what’s at stake: how pending EU laws, national ambitions, and the lack of a new government intersect—and why Dutch pioneers in fashion must act now to secure both climate impact and economic opportunity.

The fashion industry is at a tipping point. With increasing pressure from the European Union and the climate crisis, the urgency to fundamentally reform production and consumption models is growing. One of the driving forces behind this shift is former D66 MP Kiki Hagen. Drawing on her experience in Parliament and her involvement in textile legislation in the Netherlands, she advocates for persistence and vision—especially now that politics is on shaky ground.

The Netherlands as a textile front-runner in Europe

“We were the second country in Europe to implement extended producer responsibility (UPV) for textiles,” Hagen explains. “That means brands remain responsible for the clothing they put on the market—even after the consumer is done with it. That’s groundbreaking.”

This regulation is set to take effect in January 2025, despite political turbulence. The legislation exists, but what’s missing is political direction for the future. “We’re a pilot country for Europe. The European Commission is watching us. That’s a unique opportunity, but also a major responsibility,” Hagen emphasizes.

Stalemate caused by political instability

The fall of the Dutch cabinet is slowing progress. “There’s no state secretary with a sustainability vision, and legislative proposals can’t move forward right now,” says Hagen. Legislation on ecodesign, product passports, and the right to repair is currently on hold in Brussels, even though the Netherlands is ready to accelerate.

“Politics must be willing to invest in recyclers, repair infrastructure, and innovation. If we hit pause now, we’ll never reach our 2030 goals.”

The real barrier: the old economic model

According to Hagen, the root of the problem runs deeper than just political will. “We live in a linear economy where success is measured by growth. That’s fundamentally at odds with circular business models.” And although legislation often imposes extra admin burdens on pioneers, Hagen sees real opportunity: “The companies that know their supply chains inside and out can adapt much faster. Circular fashion isn’t a loss model—it’s a strategic advantage.”

Vision and collaboration as a lever for change

So, what’s really needed to make an impact? Hagen believes it comes down to collective action and a clear focus. “The industry needs to come together. Define what’s already possible, identify the bottlenecks, and turn this into a Dutch action plan: a clear, shared vision for the next ten years.”

“Once that vision is in place, the Netherlands can step into Brussels with confidence. We have the knowledge and we have the case studies—think of companies like Brightfiber Textiles, which are already enabling large-scale textile recycling.”

A call to industry: make your voice heard

Even though politics is temporarily on hold, Hagen believes the industry still has a role to play in keeping up the pressure. “There are still parties in Parliament, like SGP and GroenLinks, submitting motions. And on the European level, names like Lara Wolters and Wopke Hoekstra are key players. But the industry itself must also take the lead: speak out, showcase flagship projects, and lobby with a clear message.”

From chamber to chain: Hagen now focuses on structural collaboration

Although she has left the Second Chamber, Hagen continues to work tirelessly toward a circular textile future. She recently became the director of circular innovation collective producer-led organization where brands, recyclers, collectors, and innovators join forces to accelerate the sector’s transition.

What’s often forgotten is that sustainability also creates economic opportunity. “Look at wind energy—once a niche, now a thriving export sector. Textiles can follow the same path. Innovation, knowledge, and technology from the Netherlands can be sold worldwide. That’s already happening—next week, a U.S. delegation is coming to study our collection and sorting system.”

Despite the fall of the cabinet, there’s no reason to wait to take action. The future of textiles is now—and the Netherlands has the chance to lead the way.